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The Basilica of San Francesco in Assisi, Umbria

Umbria: Tuscany’s Quieter Neighbour, and What to See There

Leave a Comment / Italy / David

Umbria is the region next to Tuscany that gets none of the attention, and the locals are quietly fine with that. Same hill towns, same cypress trees, same food culture, roughly half the visitors and noticeably lower prices. It’s also the only Italian region with no coastline and no border with another country, which is […]

Umbria: Tuscany’s Quieter Neighbour, and What to See There Read More »

Adobe buildings in Santa Fe, New Mexico

Santa Fe and White Sands: New Mexico Without the Rush

Leave a Comment / United States / David

New Mexico is the state Americans forget exists and Europeans have never heard of. It has a 400-year-old capital city where building codes require adobe, a national park made of white gypsum dunes, and pueblos that have been continuously inhabited for a thousand years. It’s also cheap, empty and about four hours’ drive from top

Santa Fe and White Sands: New Mexico Without the Rush Read More »

A passport and travel documents on a table

Travel Insurance: The Three Things That Actually Matter

Leave a Comment / Travel Tips / David

Travel insurance is the thing everyone buys in a rush on the last screen of a booking flow, for £22, without reading anything. Then something goes wrong and they discover the policy covers roughly none of it. Here’s what actually matters, in order. Medical cover is the only part that can bankrupt you Everything else

Travel Insurance: The Three Things That Actually Matter Read More »

The Mole Antonelliana above the rooftops of Turin

Turin: The Italian City Everyone Drives Past

Leave a Comment / Italy / David

Turin gets skipped. People fly into Milan, head for Lake Como or Venice, and never consider the city an hour and a half west that has 18km of covered arcades, the best Egyptian museum outside Cairo, and the place where chocolate and hazelnut were first combined into a paste. Yes. Nutella starts here. We’ll come

Turin: The Italian City Everyone Drives Past Read More »

The Teton range above the valley in Wyoming

Grand Teton and Jackson Hole: Don’t Treat It as the Warm-Up

Leave a Comment / United States / David

Most people bolt Grand Teton onto a Yellowstone trip and give it a day. That’s backwards. Yellowstone has the geysers and the crowds; Grand Teton has mountains that come straight up out of a flat valley with no foothills in the way, which is why every photograph of it looks slightly unreal. They’re 50km apart

Grand Teton and Jackson Hole: Don’t Treat It as the Warm-Up Read More »

La Concha beach in Donostia-San Sebastian, Basque Country

San Sebastian: How a Pintxo Crawl Actually Works

Leave a Comment / Spain / David

San Sebastián has more Michelin stars per head than almost anywhere on Earth. It also has a bar culture where you can eat brilliantly for €3 a plate while standing up. Both of those things are true at once and the second one is why you should go. The Basques call it Donostia. You’ll see

San Sebastian: How a Pintxo Crawl Actually Works Read More »

The salt flats of Badwater Basin in Death Valley

Death Valley: When to Go and What to Skip

Leave a Comment / United States / David

Death Valley holds the highest air temperature ever reliably recorded on Earth: 56.7°C, in July 1913. It regularly clears 50°C in summer. It is also, for about five months of the year, one of the most comfortable and least crowded national parks in America. Which is the whole article, really. Everything here depends on when

Death Valley: When to Go and What to Skip Read More »

The Alhambra above Granada, Spain

Granada and the Alhambra: Book This First, Plan the Rest After

Leave a Comment / Spain / David

The Alhambra sells around 8,500 tickets a day and they go months in advance. That’s the single fact that determines whether your Granada trip works, and it’s the one most people find out about a week before they fly. So: book the Alhambra first, then plan everything else around the slot you get. Everything below

Granada and the Alhambra: Book This First, Plan the Rest After Read More »

The village of Manarola in the Cinque Terre, Italy

Which Cinque Terre Village Should You Actually Stay In?

Leave a Comment / Italy / David

Five villages, one train line, and a decision that people agonise over far more than they need to. Here’s the short version: they’re 5 to 20 minutes apart by train, you’ll see all of them regardless, and the only thing your choice really changes is what your evenings look like. That said, the evenings are

Which Cinque Terre Village Should You Actually Stay In? Read More »

Yosemite Valley from Tunnel View, California

Yosemite for First-Timers: When to Arrive and Where to Go

Leave a Comment / United States / David

Yosemite Valley is about 11 square kilometres. The park is 3,000. Roughly 90% of visitors go to that 11, which tells you both what’s worth seeing and why it feels the way it does in July. There’s a lot of advice out there about beating the crowds. Most of it boils down to two things:

Yosemite for First-Timers: When to Arrive and Where to Go Read More »

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