8 Things to Do in Monterey and Carmel on One Trip
Monterey and Carmel are about ten minutes apart, but they feel like different worlds. Monterey is a working harbor town with a world-class aquarium and a lot of history. Carmel-by-the-Sea is a tiny village of storybook cottages, art galleries and a white sand beach. Put them together and you’ve got one of the best weekends on the California coast.
In this guide
Here are eight things to do on one trip, roughly in the order I’d do them.
1. Spend a morning at the Monterey Bay Aquarium
This is one of the best aquariums in the world, and it’s worth the steep ticket price. The kelp forest tank is three stories tall and sways like a real underwater forest. The jellyfish galleries are mesmerizing, and the sea otter feedings are pure joy.
The real magic is that it’s built right on the bay. Step out onto the back decks and you might spot wild otters floating in the kelp just below. Book tickets online and arrive when it opens, because it gets very crowded by late morning, especially on weekends.
2. Walk Cannery Row
The aquarium sits at the end of Cannery Row, the waterfront street John Steinbeck made famous in his 1945 novel. Back then, it was lined with smelly sardine canneries. The fish ran out in the 1950s, and today the old buildings hold shops, restaurants and hotels.
Honestly, a lot of it is touristy now. But it’s a pleasant walk, and the plaques along the way tell the story. Keep going along the Monterey Bay Coastal Recreation Trail, a flat path that runs along the water toward Pacific Grove. You’ll see harbor seals and pelicans along the way.
3. Drive 17-Mile Drive
17-Mile Drive is a private toll road that loops through Pebble Beach, between Pacific Grove and Carmel. There’s a per-car fee at the gate, and it’s worth every cent. You’ll pass rocky coves, crashing waves, famous golf courses and huge mansions.
The star is the Lone Cypress, a single tree that has clung to a granite rock above the ocean for more than 250 years. Also stop at Bird Rock to see sea lions and seabirds, and at Spanish Bay for a walk on the boardwalk. Allow two hours, with stops.
4. Get lost in Carmel village
Carmel-by-the-Sea looks like it belongs in a fairy tale. Many of the cottages have curved roofs, crooked chimneys and little gardens. Several were built in the 1920s by a designer named Hugh Comstock, and you’ll find them on the streets around Torres and Sixth.
Carmel is also delightfully odd. There are no street addresses, so homes go by names instead. There are no streetlights in residential areas. And technically, you need a free permit to wear heels taller than two inches. Nobody will arrest you, but it tells you a lot about the town. Spend an afternoon browsing the galleries, wine tasting rooms and hidden courtyards along Ocean Avenue.
5. Watch the sunset at Carmel Beach
Walk down to the end of Ocean Avenue and you’ll reach Carmel Beach, a curve of soft white sand framed by twisted cypress trees. It’s one of the most dog-friendly beaches in California, so expect a lot of happy dogs running off-leash.
Bring a blanket and stay for sunset, when the whole bay turns gold. The water is far too cold and rough for swimming, so it’s more of a place to sit and watch.
6. Explore Point Lobos
Just south of Carmel, Point Lobos State Natural Reserve is often called the crown jewel of California’s state parks. It’s a rugged little headland with turquoise coves, cypress groves and wildlife everywhere. Look for sea otters, harbor seals and, in winter and spring, migrating gray whales.
The Cypress Grove Trail and the walk out to China Cove are short and stunning. Parking inside the reserve is very limited, so come early. Otherwise, park on Highway 1 and walk in for free.
▶ Watch This Before You Go
7. Visit Carmel Mission
Mission San Carlos Borromeo de Carmelo was founded in 1770 and is one of the most beautiful of California’s 21 Spanish missions. Father Junípero Serra, who founded the mission chain, is buried here. The stone church, with its star-shaped window and peaceful gardens, is a quiet place to spend an hour.
The museum is honest about the mission era’s impact on the Native people of the region, which is worth reading. There’s a small entry fee.
8. Eat chowder on the wharf
Back in Monterey, Old Fisherman’s Wharf is full of seafood restaurants, and many hand out free samples of clam chowder as you walk past. Try a few, then pick your favorite for lunch. The sea lions barking under the pier are free entertainment.
The wharf is also where whale watching tours leave. Monterey Bay has whales most of the year: humpbacks and blue whales in summer and fall, and gray whales in winter. The tours can be rough, so take seasickness tablets beforehand.
Don’t miss the monarchs
From late October to February, thousands of monarch butterflies spend the winter in a grove of eucalyptus trees in Pacific Grove, right between Monterey and Carmel. The Monarch Grove Sanctuary is free. Go on a sunny afternoon, when they open their wings and flutter around the trees.
Where to stay
Carmel has charming small inns, but they’re expensive. Monterey has more choice and better prices. Pacific Grove, in between, is a quiet and cheaper option with Victorian bed and breakfasts.
Common questions
Monterey or Carmel: which is better?
Do both. Stay in Monterey for value and the aquarium, and spend at least an afternoon and a sunset in Carmel.
How many days do I need?
Two full days covers everything here. Add a third for a drive down to Big Sur.
When is the best time to visit?
September and October. The summer fog clears, the afternoons are warm, and the crowds thin out.
How far is it from San Francisco?
About two hours by car, or longer on a Friday afternoon. It makes an easy weekend trip.
Is Big Sur close by?
Yes. Bixby Bridge is about 30 minutes south of Carmel on Highway 1. Check road conditions first, since landslides close parts of the highway from time to time.
